Notes

20th Century Fashion

Alistair O’Neill

Georg Simmel 1904 essay (see sheet) > Man has…

Two types of reforms in terms of fashion: One is about fitting in and one is about standing out

> this could lead in to how we decide to dress in the morning

Lecture Aim

Not only thinking about fashion but its contribution to our culture

British Pathe 1921

Commented on new stories from around the world and cultural narratives

The Wheel of Fashion

Haute Couture & Pret a Porter

Haute Couture had a reign from 1860s to the 1960s when the rise of Pret a porter came to form

Mass production (means produced at volumes of more than 20,000) or more so batch production which means a few to 20,000

Origins Haute Couture

Gaston Worth – Charles Frederick Worth’s son

1973 – formally recognised the genre of pret a porter despite it being around before WW2

Mass Production & Mass Consumption

People’s wardrobes growing in size in the 20^th century = mass consumption

Mass production coined by Henry Ford i.e. factory assembly process (prior it was known as Fordism)

Chanel little black dress/ford model T car = LINKED

Machine Age & Digital Age

Machine Age:

1880s through to outbreak of second world war

End of first world war 1918 and end of second 1985

Where we get art deco from < A style influenced by industrial materials

Digital Age:

Need to understand the Information age (a term now dated), computeration of information starts in the 1970s and reaches critical stage in the late 19^th century with the creation of the computer

Modernism & Postmodernism

Relate to not only art but philosophy also

Response to modern industrial societies

Modernism

Comes out of post great war

Felt the Victorian houses they were living in were notoriously out dated

Russian Revolution 1918

Rejection of 19^th century history

Adolf ‘Lose’ architect – evolution of products quote

Maxim that capsulates this is ‘form follows function’

Postmodernism

Developed 1960s and 1970s

Robert van pury – Less is a bore? More? CHECK

Interest in surfaces symbolism pastiche

V&A – modernism and postmodernism museum catalogues  READING

Futurism & Historism

Pierre Cardin and Henri someone = shows they are interested in the space race in the 60s

As a result of all the futurism – people enjoy history

examples: Viv Westwood tweed

The Look - YSL 1992

Part 1 3:07 – 5:00

Fashion producing a commentary on 20^th century art = The Mondrian Dress

Men Women and Clothes: How Fashions come and go

First programme on fashion history ever

BBC

Costume History & Fashion Studies  

Mode en France 1986

Music: Gainsborough < COOL FILM

Words in fashion

Trickle down & Bubble Up

moments

transitions

cycles

revivals

Beyond fashion = her majesty the queen

Formal & Casual

Social Idealism & Capitalism

Globalisation & Westernisation

Global Encyclopedia on world dress in library

Privilege & Meritocracy

Privilege pre 60s

Meritocratic society = post 60s

twiggy poster girl for this:

Man alive top class people

13:20-17:15

What you own what your family title suggests to What skills you have and what you can do. Working class excelled in the creative industries

Needs and Desires

Johanna burton on Cindy Sherman’s Untitled £299, 1994 (2012)

0-04:23 <GOOD ANALYSIS